14 THE FOREST LANDS OF NORTHERN RUSSIA. 
St. Petersburg, and ascending the Neva at Schlusselburg, 
he entered on Lake Ladoga, and visited Konevits, 
Hexholm, and Walamo: the first and the last of which 
are holy islands, visited by hosts of pilgrims by which the 
steamer was crowded, most being deck passengers. Many 
of these were very sick, and strewn on the deck, it seemed 
as if in many places they were lying three deep. A day 
or half a day spent by the steamer at each place gave an 
opportunity to such as chose to fulfil there the object of 
their pilgrimage, and proceed with the steamer to the 
next; but if they preferred to do so, they could remain, 
and proceed by the following steamer. At one of the 
islands, which is covered with forest, no tree may be felled, 
no animal slaughtered. Other restrictions similar in 
character, but different in kind it may be, are in force at 
other holy places subject to the Greek Church of Russia; 
and yet Well, at Konevits, a somewhat lugubrious- 
looking priest took up his position by the side of the 
vessel, and never left it while the vessel was in port. My 
friend asked the captain what was the purpose of his 
there keeping watch and ward, and he was informed that 
the priest was stationed there by ecclesiastical authority 
to watch, and afterwards to testify, that no one of the 
monks had obtained brandy on board or from on board 
the steamer: a precaution which may be commendable; 
but one which may naturally suggest a gibe at the expense 
of the character of the consecrated men ; and allegations to 
their prejudice in regard to sensual immoralities are 
advanced in support of the gibe. 
He entered Finland by Hexholm, a little town beautifully 
situated on the western shore of the lake—a town of which 
frequent mention is made in the old historical annals of 
Finland. On the shores of Lake Ladoga, with its forest- 
crowned hills and lovely vaileys, one may feel as if trans- 
ported to some one of the most lovely regions of the South. 
My route took me across Lake Ladoga in an easterly 
direction to the mouth of the Svir, by which are conveyed 
