214 The Farm Woodlot 



When the direction has been decided upon, cut with an 

 ax a notch on that side of the tree. In conifers it need 

 not exceed more than two or three inches in depth; in 

 hardwoods, it should extend to the center of the tree, 

 and "cut the pig tail." This prevents the tree from split- 

 ting up the trunk and "kicking back," an accident quite 

 common in hardwoods. It is always dangerous to stand 

 directly back of the saw in cutting hardwoods. Conifers 

 occasionally do the same thing. This notch should be 

 as nearly as possible horizontal and clean cut. It should 

 be made as close as practicable to the root collar, for the 

 wood in the stump is the best part of the tree. It also 

 aids in reproduction when sprout growth is depended 

 upon. 



The outer bark should then be chipped off around the 

 trunk a few inches above the notch because this bark 

 greatly retards the saw. The saw should be started two 

 or three inches above and opposite the notch. Care must 

 be taken to keep the cut straight, or the saw will bind. 

 Do not press too hard on the saw, and do not jerk it. 

 The motion should be regular, smooth and with just 

 enough pressure to keep the saw constantly in contact 

 with the wood. If it is desired to have the tree fall exactly 

 in the direction of the notch, the cut should be kept parallel 

 to it; if it is to be swerved to the right, the left corner 

 should be cut through first, and vice versa. If the saw 

 binds in a large tree, wedges, either iron or hardwood, 

 can be driven in the kerf back of it, care being taken 

 that the wedge does not touch the saw. In a small 

 tree, the pressure can usually be relieved by pushing with 

 the hand against the trunk above the saw. Never try to 



