OSTIAK CHOO-M ON THE OB 



CHAPTER XLVI. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



Perm — De-Tatarisation of Russia — The Siberiak — Heavy Rain — 

 Autumnal Tints — Kazan — Search for a Professor — The Museum — Tatars 

 — Steamboat Accident — The Volga — Nishni Novgorod — Moscow — Its 

 Museum — St. Petersburg. 



It was quite dark when we reached Perm on Saturday, 

 the 15th of September, and we at once drove to the 

 steamer Samolot, or "self-flyer," dehghted to bid a long 

 adieu to tarantass, telega, and Tatar yemschik, and to 

 find ourselves once more directly steaming towards 

 Europe and civilisation. 



Russia has made enormous progress since the 

 abolition of serfdom ; yet the moment you cross its 

 frontier you still feel that you have left Europe and 



