78 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN 



and yet in a country how traditions linger and customs 

 cling ! We saw and did many interesting things, thanks 

 to the cordial hospitality and kindness of our host and 

 hostess. I, however, will only aUude to certain domestic 

 details which I learnt during my stay, and which may 

 instruct you as they did me. What interested me much 

 from a housekeeping point of view was, not only the 

 excellence of the cooking, as that now can be seen else- 

 where, but the management of the kitchen. It seems a 

 small thing to state as an example, but I was told that 

 no French housekeeper who at all respects herself would 

 ever allow lard to come into her house. Everything is 

 fried in what they call gradsse, and we call suet. Five or 

 six pounds are bought from the butcher — anywhere in 

 England they wiU let you have it at sixpence a pound. 

 This is boiled for two or three hours, skimmed and 

 strained, and poured into jars ready for use, taking the place 

 of lard when butter or oU are not used. Since I came 

 home I have never had any lard in my house. Many 

 people here do not know that dripping can be cleared 

 by frying some pieces of raw potato in it till they turn 

 brown ; this will clarify it nicely. 



All chickens, game, birds of any kind, are roasted far 

 more slowly than with us, and at wood fires. The livers, 

 gizzards, &c., are chopped up and put inside the bird. It 

 is always basted with butter, which is poured round the 

 bird when sent to table. This is a very great improve- 

 ment with all birds, especially fowls, on the pale watery 

 gravy or the thick tasteless sauce as served in England. 

 Our method of sticking the liver and gizzard into the 

 wing is a useless waste, for they shrivel into a hardened 

 mass before our fierce coal fires. The French, if they 

 do not think the hvers, etc., necessary for improving the 

 gravy in the roasting often make them the foundation of 

 a pie or side-dish. This cutting up the liver and basting 



