CASTOROLOGIA. 



131 



-will help the appreciation of both articles if the difference between 

 the old " beaver " and the present silk hat be explained. The latter 

 depends on a woven silk plush for its outside cover, and this fabric is 

 weaved in lengths, having both the appearance and much of the 

 character of a loose velvet. The ' ' body ' ' or form of the hat is made 

 ■of layers of hatter's cotton, a soft open texture, which coated with 

 shellac, is bound on the block or form, and being thoroughly pliable 

 while warm, is nicely adjusted to the desired shape, and then 

 allowed to cool and harden. The silk plush is then cut ; a circular 

 piece for the crown, a broad band for the sides, and an open circle 

 for the brim ; these are carefully sewn together, drawn over the 

 ' ' body ' ' and finished after the fashion of a " beaver. ' ' 



About the middle of last century the hatting industry seems to 

 have been in a very unsatisfactory state. In France, a law forbid- 

 ding the export of beaver skins, had the effect of establishing an 

 artificial advantage in favor of the French manufacturers. England 

 then allowed a drawback of duty on all exported beavers, which 

 stimulated an export trade, while a gradual decrease in importation 

 made prices too dear for the manufacture of pure beaver felts, and 

 we read of mixtures of "coney wool, goafs wool and other materials " 

 in the efforts to produce a hat at a fixed price. 



It should be observed here, that there existed a demand for 

 beaver wool for felting purposes other than the uses in the hatter's 

 trade, and there seems to have been a limited quantity employed in 

 Russia, in making cloth and other fabrics. 



To return to the skins from which the fleece had been taken : — 

 the quantity of these must have been very considerable for many 

 years, consequently, it is not surprising that a profitable commercial 

 outlet was discovered. The trappers knew that from the cleanings 

 and scrapings of beaver skin, a glue was obtainable, and they saved 

 the scrapings of the skins to boil down for this purpose, applying it 

 to their canoes or wherever a reliable glue was necessary. In 

 Europe, the skins were turned over to the glue-makers, and though 

 the article may have answered the purpose well, and may have been 



