39 



icg it is not too coarse. 1 ue ground should be deeply plowed and well harrowed over 

 betore setting, as no plant delights more in deep, friable soil than the raspberry, and 

 as the plant remains for years in the same place it is well to have it get well and deeply 

 rooted and established at first. 



PLANTING OUT. 



A shallow furrow is plowed or small hole made with a hoe, (Fig. S8) and the root 



— spread out as here shown, being careful not to break off 



the germ at the base of the stalk, for, if broken off, it 



will take from two to four weeks to force out another, 



and thus the growth of the new stalk is put back so much. 



Put one plant in ahill, holding the plant with the left hand, 



and with the right scatter a little fine soil over the germ 



and then fill up with the hoe, so that it will stand about 



as deep as it originally grew, or say not to exceed two 



Fig. 28. inches. If planted in the Fall, scatter a little mulching 



over the root and as soon as the ground is settled in the Spring, soften up the surface 



down to the root with a fork hoe, for if it should become too hard or bakey, the tender 



germ may be destroyed. Potatoes or beans can be planted between the first year. 



DISTANCE TO PLANT. 



If desirable to plant both ways, six feet apart, or if one way only, three by six. 

 The first distance for large plantations where help is scarce and high and it is necessary 

 to do as much work as possible with the cultivator, is the best, as they can be worked 

 out both ways with the cultivator. When grown thus, however, the " pinching in" 

 of the new growth must be thoroughly and timely attended to, so that they will grow 

 very stocky and not be twisted or broken by the wind. The last distance is preferred 

 by many who have but a small piece ' of ground, and who wish to get as much fruit 

 the first season or two as possible ; although perhaps, in the long run, the most fruit 

 could be obtained from the " hill" culture, as they could be better attended, more 

 thoroughly cultivated and kept pruned much better and more easily, and, too, not 

 requiring the great amount of hoeing that the row or hedge system would require. 

 Strawberries can be set among them, as described in a former part of this work, or 

 potatoes can be planted the first season, and when dug the tops thrown around them, , 

 forming an admirable mulch. One important thing in favor of planting in rows is i 

 that when they grow up they grow together and sustain each other against hard winds. 

 This, of course, is an important item in those sections of the country where hard winds 

 prevail. , . . . - , 



AS SOON AS THEY fePROUT 



In the Sp-\jg, work them out clean with the cultivator and hoe, and keep them well 

 worked tnrough the season. Cut them back the first season, in July or August, to 

 within one foot of the crown, and side branches primed proportionately. This severe 

 pruning must be resorted to the first season to ensure a 'strong, healthy bush after- 

 wards. If not cut back, they are apt to exhaust themselves in bearing the first season, * 

 before they get sufficiently rooted, so that they get stunted and many die out, while 

 the large share of the balance never make healthy or good-bearing bushes. Here is 

 where the great mistake is made by many planters — to leave too much wood the first 

 year. Be sure and have a strong, full grown root or bush before allowing them to 

 bear heavily, and your plantation will last from eight to ten years, while if they are 

 allowed too much top, and to over-bear when young, the plantation will ever after- 

 wards be worthless, or at least, will not pay. We have heard parties boast what a 

 growth their raspberries- made the first' year, and what a crop they got from that 

 growth; but they "paid dear for the whistle," for their plantation was ruined thereby. 



After the first season piuch off the top of the new growth when it gets two to two 

 and a half feet in height, and if the side branches should grow out too spindling, cut 

 these back to within two feet of the main stalk. If this cutting back process is thor- 

 oughly attended to each season, they will grow sufficiently stocky to hold up their fruit 

 without the trouble of staking, besides yielding double the amount of fruit. 



In growing by the row system spoken of above, or what might more properly be 

 £raed the 



