EZA. — NICE. 117 



like an innocent to\ . But e\en on this elevated spot 

 we are reminded of the serious aspect of life b}' all the 

 fortifications which France has erected on the mountain 

 tops. Even the highest mountain abo\'c Monte Carlo, 

 the Mont Agel, whose summit (about .-5,800 feet high) 

 dominates the A\'hole countr\' round, is now crowned 

 with redoubts. 



The most beautiful spot on the Corniche seems to 

 me to be wliere Eza rises on its steep rock midwa}' in 

 tlie landscape. \\'hat an immense expenditure of energy 

 must have been required to build strongholds out of 

 huge liewn blocks poised on these gidch' heights between 

 heaven and earth I Surrounded b\- precipices and secure 

 against all surprises, Xicois and Piedmontese families 

 have ruled this fortress in succession. Miserable dwellings 

 shelter under the strong ^^'alls and still stand todav 

 crowcling round the crumbling ruins. The old splendour 

 lias vanished from this spot: the miser\- has remained. But 

 all this as seen from a distance is gilded hv the bright 

 southern sun, and the proud rocks stand out majestically 

 against the blue background of the sea. 



Nice continues to grow : it is losing its original 

 Italian character and assuming that of an elegant, 

 cosmopolitan city. It revels in modern luxury. In the 

 winter ''Redoutes", "Battles of Flowers", regattas and 

 horse races follow one another in endless succession. The 

 craving for enjo\'ment has seized upon even the natives. 

 N'ice is now as much 'en vogue' as was Baiae of old, 

 and is equalh' gi\'en up to pleasure. How strange that 

 this spot should have been chosen ! It has suffered so 



