334 COSMETICS. 



and Enq-lancl they were sometimes iVeelv iiidiilo-ed in. as 

 for instance in France at the time of tlie Renascence, 

 under tlie influence of the Italian artists with wliom Francis I 

 and Catliarine de AFedicis loved to surround themselves. 

 Fhen people revelled in perfumed pastes, pomades 

 and scented gloves. Cosmetics came into fashion and 

 called lorth quite a special literature on tlie subject. The 

 fact that I)i;ina of Poitiers retained tlie charm of a ontli 

 to a ^-reat age, although she u-as married at thirteen to 

 Louis of I iroze, Grand Seneschal of Xormanch'. \\-as ascribed 

 to cosmetics, the secret of wliich Paracelsus had conlided 

 to her. d^he abuse of cosmetics during the times of the 

 A'alois still continued under 1 [enr\' 1\'. (^neen AFiria 

 de ]\[edicis liad among lier retiime a "Racrimmodeur de 

 ^■isage", and she herselt, as ^\'ell as all her ladies of honour, 

 e\'en the ver\- oldest, were quite plastered over \\-ith red 

 and white. ^\ reaction was bound to follow and under 

 Louis XIII beautiful Anna of Austria re-introduced oint- 

 ments to the ta\onr of tlie court. Then came the 'd'ates 

 d'Amandes" and the \'arious "Cremes"' and "R()uges'', \\ hich 

 lent artilicial colour to ladies' complexions. Louis XI\' 

 did not like cosmetics : so their use declined during his 

 reign, but onh' to receive a renewed impulse during the 

 "Regence''. At this time specifics flourished whicli were 

 supposed to ensure perpetual \(juth and lieauty. The 

 notorious Cagliostro recei^•ed from the equalh- notorious 

 Dubarry, and from other beauties, no mean sums for 

 these specifics. In sjiite of this rouge ^\ as again less used 

 under Louis X\', and "Rouge de Portugal en tasse" ^\•as 

 of a less vivid colour, ^'et the sale of rouce was still so 



