THE VOYAGE OF THE HASSLER 141 
steep bold cliffs at either end, we could see the sea 
lions sitting on the beach, and the bold bluffs above 
were literally studded thick with birds, penguins 
and cormorants chiefly. Immediately after break- 
fast we all went on shore, three boats full, for all 
were anxious to see this famous breeding place of 
birds and haunt of seals. I despair of describing it 
to you. The whole face of the cliff and the hill- 
side above are perforated with large openings which 
are the homes of penguins, cormorants and geese. As 
our boat neared the shore these throngs of birds 
(literally hundreds and thousands) broke up and we 
could see the penguins walking along the edge of the 
cliff in lines, single file, looking like gaunt little old 
women with their waddling gait and stubby wings, 
which they use partly as legs, hanging down like 
short scant petticoats. When we came to the slope of 
the hill above the cliff, they had scuttled away or re- 
treated to their nests. I sat down at the front doors of 
many families and watched them in their houses; for 
these nests have such large openings that you can 
see inside perfectly. They have a comical way, when 
sitting within their holes, of turning their heads con- 
stantly from side to side as if in earnest conversa- 
tion, but without noise, though when disturbed, angry 
or frightened, they utter a hoarse cry, but in their 
nests they seem to be carrying on a silent colloquy 
every now and again, touching and rubbing their 
bills together. After looking at them for a long while I 
went to the edge of the hill where I could see the face 
of the cliff and watched them there. It was curious 
