METHODS OF GRAFTING 



231 



Bridg-e grafting is a makeshift method not to be com- 

 pared with proper protection of trunks by keeping 

 animals out of the orchard, l)y avoiding accumulation of 

 grass, straw, etc., in which mice might form nests, and by 

 using trunk protectors — splints, tarred or building paper, 

 but preferably one-half-inch galvanized hardware cloth 

 — around the trunks until the trees have developed rough 

 bark (Fig. 146). Such methods will prevent the necessity 

 of bridge grafting except in cases of unusual accident. 



FIG. 188— VARIOUS STYLES OF GRAFTING KNIVES 



A, closing blade propagating knife with bone bark lifter; B, C, nursery grafting 

 knivt^s, blades stationary; D, pocket grafting knife. 



When the girdles are narrow — say only one to three 

 inches — no bridging may be necessary. In such cases, 

 however, it is well to err on the safe side by covering the 

 wound with grafting clay (half clay and fresh cow 

 manure) and bandaging this in with cotton cloth, or by 

 using grafting wax as described above. Often such 

 wounds will heal over in a single season. 



301. Root grafting, perhaps the most generally prac- 

 ticed nursery method, is usually performed by means of 

 the whip or tongue graft, a method employed only with 

 small stocks generally one or two years old. It is often- 

 est done during winter in a cool, humid room. Should 

 the air be too dry or too warm, the grafting wood may be 

 injured by drying. Never should the work be done near 

 a stove or a radiator for this reason. When necessary 



