_'54 l'LA,\'l J'ROI'AGATIOX 



iiiosporas may be usefully increased by grafting. Stock for first 

 and second is American arbor \itae (Tliula occidcniahs) ; for the 

 next two red cedar (J iiiiil^cnis vinjinica) ; for cypress family use 

 funereal upright cypress {Cyprcssns sempervireiis) ; for larch use 

 common larch, 



Tn March on stocks established in pots use "leader" cions ; cut 

 stocks about half through, make a tongue half way down the cut. 

 Prepare cion similarly, leaving growing point intact. Fit stock and 

 cion accurately, bind with raffia, cover with prepared clay (2S.') ) 

 and place under staging for a couple of days. Then smear union 

 again with clay and plunge in a propagating case for a couple of 

 weeks. A\oid excess of water, but sprinkle occasionally with a 

 line rose. After har<lening place in nursery bed with soil heaped 

 over union. To prevent annoyance from needles, cut with shears; 

 don't pull out. 



337. Mango budding, according to G. W. Oliver, an American ex- 

 ])erimenter, is best done when the new leaves are not far enough 

 developed to show bright green, because the bark is then easiest re- 

 moved. The thick part of the stem, a few inches above ground, is 

 the best place, a rectangular piece of bark about 1!^ inches long 

 being removed for a similar piece of two-year-old wood containing 

 a central bud of the desired kind to replace il. After fitting the 

 bud, a light coat of liquid grafting wax, rich in resin, is brushed 

 on and the bud tied in place with raffia. The stem just above the 

 bud is then wound with an S-inch strip of wrapping paper and tied 

 in place as a protection. As stocks, moderate sized two to three- 

 year-old seedlings are best. Stems one inch or slightly more give 

 best unions. 



Higgins of Hawaii finds that patch budding (Oliver's method) 

 is superior to inarching, but can be done only when both bud wood 

 and stock are in active growth, a condition rarely found in both 

 at the same time. Shield budding with inverted T gives better 

 results and is quicker than patch budding. It may be used when the 

 bud wood is not in active growth. 



