Bottom Board of Hive. 



125 



longitudinal slits (Fig. 39, d), so tliat this can be bolted firmly 

 to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, 

 and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge 

 of this a narrow board (Fig. 39, e) should be nailed, which 

 will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be 

 beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. 

 Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, 

 and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut. 



Fig. 39. 



Bevel-Gauge. 



Such a carrier (Fig 39) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from 

 a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints 

 dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50. 



In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand 

 or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that 

 perfect uniformity will be secured. 



THE BOTTOM BOARD. 



For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 40), we should have a 

 single one-inch board (Fig. 40, a) just as wide as the hive, 

 and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of 

 the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to 

 enter at the side. This is nailed to two pieces of two-by-four 

 scantling (Fig. 40, h, b). Thus the hive rests four inches 

 from the ground. A bottom board no wider than the hive, 

 which shall be simply a bottomless box four inches high, has 



