116 JOURNAL. 
foot of steep rocks which overhang the sea, and advance so close to 
it in some places as barely to leave room for a narrow street, and open 
in others, so as to admit of two middling squares, one of which is the 
market-place, and has on one side the governor’s house, which is back- 
ed by a little fort crowning a low hill. The other square is dignified 
by the Jglesia Matriz, which, as there is no bishop here, stands. in 
place of a cathedral. From these squares several ravines or quebra- 
das branch off; these are filled with houses, and contain, I should ima- 
gine, the bulk ofthe population, which I am told amounts to 15,000 
souls ; further on there is the arsenal, where there are a few slips for 
building boats, and conveniences for repairing vessels ; but all appear- 
ing poor ; and still farther is the outer fort, which terminates the port 
on that side. To the east of the governor’s house, the town extends 
half a quarter of a mile or a little more, and then joins its suburb the 
Almendral, situated on a flat, sandy, but fertile plain, which the re- 
ceding hills leave between them and the sea. The Almendral ex- 
tends to three miles in length, but is very narrow; the houses, like 
most of those in the town, are of one story. They are all built of 
unburnt bricks, whitewashed and covered with red tiles ; there are 
two churches, one of the Merced*, rather handsome, and two con- 
vents, besides the hospital, which is a religious foundation. The Al- 
mendral is full of olive groves, and of almond gardens, whence it has 
its name ; but, though far the pleasantest part of the town, it is not 
believed to be safe to live in it, lest one should be robbed or murdered, 
so that my taking a cottage at the very end of it is rather wondered 
at than approved. But I feel very safe, because I believe no one 
robs or kills without temptation or provocation ; and as Ihave nothing 
to tempt thieves, so I am determined not to pfovoke murderers. 
My house is one of the better kind of really Chilian cottages. It 
consists of a little entrance-hall, and a large sittingroom 16 feet 
square, at one end of which a door opens into a little dark bedroom, 
* The royal, religious, and military order of the Merced was 
instituted by the kino 
Don Jayme el Conquistador, for the purpose of redeeming captives. pu Se 
