VALPARAISO. 165 
“ tertain secret hatred,” on the discovery of San Martin’s infamous 
designs against the state he had sworn to serve. These charges are 
so frivolous, so mean, so paltry, so much what a thief at the foot of 
the gallows would be apt to lay against an innocent man who had 
offended him, that I have always felt that, in this case, to vindicate 
the integrity and freedom from corruption of such a man, would be 
an affront to his virtues. * 
27th.— I paid a visit to Madame Zenteno the governor’s lady, a 
pleasing, lively little woman, who received me very politely, and sent 
for her husband, who came immediately, and seemed delighted to 
display the English comforts of the apartment I was received in. An 
English carpet, an English grate, and even English coals, were all 
very agreeable on this cold raw day. Zenteno assured me that he 
found a fire thus burned in an open stove was the best promoter of 
conversation, and regretted the many years he had passed without 
even guessing at its comforts. He is properly anxious to promote a 
taste for the elegancies of civilised life; but under any other circum- 
stances, I should say that there was even a little affectation in his 
great admiration for everything English. However, the people of 
Valparaiso are indebted to him for considerable improvements in the 
roads and streets; and a plan for a new market-place, as soon as 
the funds will permit, is to be carried into execution. These things 
seem little to Europeans. But they forget that this Valparaiso, one 
of the greatest ports on this side of the vast continent of South Ame- 
rica, is little more in appearance than an English fishing town. 
SrpmouTH is a capital city in comparison. From the governor’s house 
I went to the jail, a strong uncomfortable building now empty. The 
prisoners are transferred to the hospital of San Juan de Dios; and 
I am ashamed to say the Spanish prisoners from Lima, sent by San 
Martin, are there also, along with the common felons. The Spaniards 
were in so wretched a condition on their arrival, that the English 
inhabitants, in order to save them from starving, have raised a 
* Aikin’s translation of the life of Agricola. 
