198 JOURNAL 
rock with marble, and restored the palaces, and the statues, and the 
luxury of that fountain which once deserved the praise or the re- 
proach of being the most luxurious spot of a luxurious city. Here 
Pudaguel sinks in lonely beauty unsung, and therefore unhonoured. 
The view from the pass of Pudaguel is most beautiful. Looking 
across the river, whose steep banks are adorned with large trees, the 
plain of Santiago stretches to the mountains, at whose foot the city 
with its spires of dazzling whiteness extends, and distinguishes this 
from the other fine views in Chile, in which the want of human 
habitation throws a melancholy over the face of nature. 
Three miles beyond Pudaguel, we met Don Jose Antonio de Cota- 
pos, whose family had kindly invited me to stay in their house while 
I was at Santiago; and though I had declined it, fancying I should 
be more at liberty in an English inn, my intentions were overruled, 
when I was met a few miles farther on by M. Prevost, who told me 
the ladies would be hurt if I did not go to their house, at any rate in 
the first instance. This was hardly settled, before I saw two car- 
riages with Madame de Cotapos and three of her remarkably pretty 
daughters, who had come to meet me and carry me into the city. 
The latter I declined, not liking, dusty as I was, to enter their carriage. 
I therefore rode on, and was received most kindly by Dofia Merce- 
dita, a fourth daughter, whose grace and politeness equals her beauty. 
After a little rest, and having refreshed myself by dressing, I was 
called to dinner; where I found all the family assembled, and several 
other gentlemen, who were invited to meet me, and do honour to the 
feast of reception. ‘The dinner was larger than would be thought 
consistent with good taste; but every thing was well dressed, though 
with a good deal of oil and garlic. Fish came among the last things. 
All the dishes were carved on the table, and it is difficult to resist the 
pressing invitations of every moment to eat of every thing. The 
greatest kindness is shown by taking things from your own plate and 
putting it on that of your friend; and no scruple is made of helping 
any dish before you with the spoon or knife you have been eating 
with, or even tasting or eating from the general dish without the 
