SANTIAGO. 211 
instead of overflowing, is now conveyed in a regular canal, with 
shrubs on each side, and gravel walks for foot passengers, and wider 
roads for carriages and horses ; about one third of this is done, and 
the rest is in progress. 
28th. — St. Austin’s Day. I am no favourite with the saint, for 
he has been thwarting me all day long. But all things in order. 
Early in the morning I heard a bell ringing exactly like that which 
on winter evenings in London announces the approach of “ muf- 
fins ;” I looked out, and saw first, a boy ringing the said bell, then 
another with a bundle of candles: all the people in the streets 
pulled off their hats, and stood as if doing homage. Then came a 
dark blue caleche, with glories and holy ghosts painted on it, and 
a man within dressed in white satin, embroidered with silver and 
coloured silk. In front sat a man with a gilt lanthorn ; behind, 
people with umbrellas. I asked what it was, and was told it was the 
Padre Eterno. The expression sounds indecent to a protestant ; 
it is holy to a Spaniard, who must think that such indeed is the Host 
on its way to a dying person ;—such in fact was the procession 
Isaw. This was the only thing that happened before the disappoint- 
ments occasioned by St. Austin began. The first of these occurred 
when I went with Mr. de Roos to see the Lancasterian school; we 
found, the boys all gone to Mass in honour of St. Austin, and the 
school shut : we proceeded to the national printing-office ; the doors 
were shut, and the printers at Mass. Thence we went to the chamber 
of the Consulada, hoping to be present at a session of the convention : 
but the members were at Mass. Then despairing of seeing any 
public place or people, I thought I would draw; so repaired to the 
Placa, where I had been promised a balcony to sketch from: but the 
master had gone to Mass, and taken the keys in his pocket; so I 
went home, resolving to do better in the afternoon, and began to 
sketch the inner pateo of the house: but, being a holiday, numerous 
visitors came, and little was done. 
After dinner I took fresh courage, and set off with Madame Cota- 
pos and her daughters to visit the nunnery of St. Austin: but it had 
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