296 ; JOURNAL. 
to another part of the plain; the part near the city is covered prin- 
cipally with garden grounds, irrigated from the Salta de Agua: be- 
yond the Portesuelo, we came to a very extensive hacienda belong- 
ing to one of the Izquierdas, where every thing was in preparation 
for the annual rodeo. The scenery of a cattle farm, being like that 
of our forest lands at home, is much more picturesque than any other ; 
but it is wilder, and gives less the air of civilisation. We passed 
along by the foot of a high mountain projecting immediately from 
the Andes for about four leagues more, and then entered the Gar- 
gana, or gorge of the mountain in which the baths are situated. The 
approach to it is marked by wider channels of floods, now partially 
dried, higher trees, and more varied though confined scenery. We 
had passed in the morning several farm-houses ; at one of which we 
had stopped to rest, and get refreshments. The farm servants being 
all about, gave an air of liveliness and interest. But now we lost 
sight of all marks of habitation, and proceeded along the gorge 
by a narrow path made with some labour, but scarcely safe for five 
or six miles, when we came to the baths. Nothing can be more 
desolate than their appearance now, and perhaps the dulness of the 
day contributed to that effect. Midwinter still reigns; no grass 
enlivens the red mountain side; but here and there an evergreen 
shrub, with its spiry buds still closely folded, overhangs the valley 
below. <A bright beautiful stream breaks its way down the whole 
vale, and the sources of this are the celebrated baths. From under 
the living rock, several copious springs gush out at a temperature 
not below 100° of Fahrenheit. The water is perfectly limpid, and 
without peculiar taste or smell, but is said to acquire both if bottled 
up a few hours. Over the fountain heads, two little ranges of brick 
buildings, each divided into several rooms (three I think in one, and 
four in the other, or three in each), are built to protect the baths from 
rain or from dust: the water is lodged in hollows of the rock, with 
a brick facing, in which there is a square outlet to permit it to run 
out freely; so that through each basin there is a constant stream 
passing, and not communicating with any other, The quantity of 
hot water is so great, that on flowing out of the baths, with the 
