LAKE OF ACULEO. 947 
cattle, and its little valley opens to the eastward, on which side it 
sends forth its stream to swell the river of the Angostura. The road 
from Don Justo’s to Aculeo is beautiful, through woods and fertile 
plains, surrounded by mountains watered by numerous streams, and 
enlivened by several good country-houses; round each of which a 
village of peons is generally collected, like the large English farm 
homesteads. 
The scenery of the lake reminded me of that around the Lago 
Maggiore; the snowy Andes, rich banks, and bright islands, even 
the very climate, seemed those of Northern Italy. We stopped a 
moment at a small house on-the side of the lake where there is 
usually a boat to be had, but she was under repair. The estate be- 
longs to one of the La Raynas, and the fish from the lake forms a 
considerable portion of the income from it. 
Dota Ana Maria, Dota Rosaria, and Jose Antonio, chose to re- 
main at the cottage. Mr. de Roos and myself, attended by the two 
peons, rode two leagues farther up the right bank of the lake, having 
first tasted the water, which we found to be perfectly sweet and fresh. 
I had never seen such forest scenery out of Europe as we passed 
through on our ride; and then there was the peculiar fragrance of 
the Chile woods, sometimes from the boughs of the aroma,. now in 
blossom, sometimes from the crushed leaves over which we. trod. 
But this lovely scene is quite solitary ; one small fishing house, on an 
island, alone tells that man has any part in it. But the eagle soars 
over it, and the swan, and all the meaner tribe of aquatic fowls, brood 
on it. Consideration for our horses induced us to return, after 
making one sketch, to our friends at the cottage, where we found 
dinner awaiting us ; and then every body went to sleep, — even I did 
so for a few minutes. On the estrada lay the ladies ; the gentlemen, 
on the saddlecloths and ponchos, slept the hot hour under the shadow 
of a tree; and the owners of the cottage each in her separate bed: one 
of these is a woman of about fifty-five, who is the best horse-breaker 
in the country, and many an untractable colt is brought to her to 
tame. At three o’clock every body was roused to take matee, and 
