TALAGANTE. 267 
ters came to visit us. It was to this lady’s house that the young 
men had ridden in the morning. She apologised for her husband’s 
absence, on account of a severe indisposition. I have seldom seen 
a more pleasing ladylike woman, and her daughters are quite worthy 
of her. I was really glad of her presence, and the countenance I de- 
rived from it in my lodging. It being Sunday night, the principal 
room, which I thought was ours, filled with persons of all classes and 
sexes, and the usual amusements began. First, the gracioso, with his 
staff in the middle of the floor, performed a number of antics, and 
made speeches to every person present. He then sent for his harp, 
and played, while all manner of persons danced all sorts of dances. 
Dojia Rosario and I, seated on our bed, with our visitors by us, saw 
as much or as little as we pleased of the holiday evening of a pul- 
peria. These scenes, however, are only delightful in description. 
Le Sage, or Smollet, might have woven a charming chapter out of 
Dofia Josefas’ inn ; but, like certain Dutch pictures, the charm is in 
the skill of the representation, not the scenes themselves. I was 
really sorry when Dojia Dolores left us; but I believe the company 
took it as a hint to depart, for we saw no more of them. Shortly 
after we had seen the ladies to their carriage, we discovered that a 
large house in the neighbourhood was on fire, and thither every body 
flocked: the night was intensely cold ; and as soon as I had heard 
that there were no inhabitants to be injured by the conflagration, I 
returned to the house, having a slight pain in my side. 
16th Sept.— We left San Francisco by Talagante, intending to go 
close by the mountain of San Miguel, to the farm where the new 
Mapocho comes by several copious springs from under-ground. We 
stopped at the Cacique’s to pay our compliments, and bought some 
small jars and platters of red clay, ornamented with streaks of earth, 
to which iron pyrites give the appearance of gold dust. Talagante 
is a very populous village, and the women at every hut appear to be 
potters. The men are soldiers, sailors, carriers, and some few hus- 
bandmen ; a fine, handsome, that is, well-made race, with faces very 
MM 2 
