VALPARAISO. 283 
disguise himself in a common dress, and, like the caliph Haroun 
Alraschid, to mingle in the coffee-houses, and in the gossipping par- 
ties at the shop doors; that he often heard himself spoken of; and 
gave me to understand, that he had found that the people were now 
happy enough to do without him; and said that, after the active life 
he had led, he began to wish for rest; that he had withdrawn from 
public life, satisfied that his part was accomplished, and that he had 
only brought with him the flag of Pizarro, the banner under which 
the empire of the Incas had been conquered, and which had been 
displayed in every war, not only those between the Spaniards and 
Peruvians, but those of the rival Spanish chiefs. “ J¢s possession,” 
said he, * has always been considered the mark of power and authority ; 
T wave 17 now;” and he drew himself up to his full height, and 
looked round him with a most imperial air. Nothing so character- 
istic as this passed during the whole four hours the Protector 
remained with me. It was the only moment in which he was him- 
self. The rest was partly an habitual talking on all subjects, to 
dazzle the less understanding ; and partly the impatience to be first, 
even in common conversation, which his long habit of command 
has given him. I pass over the compliments he paid me, somewhat 
too profusely for the occasion ; but of such we may say, as Johnson 
did of affectation, that they are excusable, because they proceed from 
the laudable desire of pleasing. Indeed, his whole manner was most 
courteous: I could not but observe, that his movements as well as his 
person are graceful; and I can well believe what I have heard, that 
in a ball-room he has few superiors. Of the other persons present, 
Colonel d’Albe and the ladies only volunteered a few words. It was 
with difficulty that, in my endeavours to be polite to all, I forced a 
syllable now and then from the other gentlemen. They seemed as 
if afraid to commit themselves ; so at length I left them alone, and 
the whole discourse soon fell into the Protector’s hands. 
Upon the whole, the visit of this evening has not impressed me 
much in favour of San Martin. His views are narrow, and J think 
selfish. His philosophy, as he calls it, and his religion, are upon 
002 
