70 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



to negotiate when bound up-stream. Then there are deep 

 passages between high, crumbling banks, where the water 

 ghdes silently onward like an olive-drab stream of molten 

 glass. The densest of tropical jungles lines both banks; its 

 matted walls facing the river are interrupted by small 

 clearings at infrequent intervals, where low hovels stand 

 surrounded by the rich foliage of banana and yucca plants. 

 Chonta-pahns, with bristling, spiny stems, rear their plumed 

 heads above the other forest-trees, or droop over the water 

 in a graceful manner, forming a dainty filigree against the 

 brazen sky. The brassy, merciless sun blazed down with 

 unrelenting vigor, and we were glad when dark storm-clouds 

 obscured the sky and provided a greatly needed respite. 



It was possible to proceed only to a point called Cabe- 

 ceros, below which rapids of a formidable character obstruct 

 further navigation. The few negroes living on the river- 

 bank can usually be induced to assist in making the por- 

 tage, men and women alike undertaking to carry packs to 

 Tambito at the foot of the rapids. Here it was necessary 

 to secure another bongo and the trip was resumed. 



The Tamand grows wider constantly. Cataracts are of 

 more frequent occurrence and present greater hazards in 

 their navigation. The bongo, made of a huge tree-trunk 

 and measuring thirty feet in length, and a yard in width, 

 was most seaworthy; but frequently it shipped water in 

 alarming quantities, and scraped and bumped over the 

 hidden rocks imtil we expected the craft to be rent asunder 

 and flounder. 



During the greater part of the afternoon we were in sight 

 of a high, isolated mountain, appearing on the map under 

 the name Cerro Torra. So far as I can learn no explorer 

 has ever succeeded in gaining its summit, and when I be- 

 held the vast stretch of impenetrable jungle extending from 

 the river to apparently the very top of the mountain, I 

 could readily understand why the few men who had at- 

 tempted this piece of exploration had failed in their under- 

 taking. 



