170 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



Yapacana, but not quite so high. It stands on the south 

 bank of the river, between the mouths of two small rivers 

 called Carriche and Trocoapure. 



Early on February 21 we had the first distinct view of 

 the Cerro Duida, looming, faintly outlined, in the distance. 

 From afar it resembled a high, level plain, but as the vapor 

 clinging to the huge, dark mass slowly dissolved itself, a 

 well-defined short range appeared with twin peaks showing 

 high above the rest of the mountains. 



The Orinoco steadily decreases in width until the distance 

 across is not more than half a mile; in many places the 

 banks are high and composed of pink and white clay 

 streaked with layers of dark-blue clay. On both sides the 

 jungle presents an unbroken wall of tangled verdure; occar 

 sionally a slender palm rears its dehcate head high above 

 the riotous mass, as if gasping for one more breath of air 

 before being strangled by the figs and creepers slowly en- 

 twining its stem with their death-dealing tentacles. Among 

 the lower growth are vast areas of palms, known as coco del 

 mono, with long fronds resembling those of the Seaforthia, 

 and bearing small, hard nuts; the leaves are used in thatch- 

 ing huts and the carroza or covering of the boats. Another 

 palm, tall and thorny, resembles the well-known chonta of 

 Colombia; it bears large clusters of red nuts, which are 

 very palatable when thoroughly boUed. 



The heat was always intense and most oppressive; even 

 the cool nights brought no respite, and in the early morning 

 a thick vapor slowly rose from the water, to be later wafted 

 above the tree-tops and disappear. 



Flocks of hoatzins, or lizard-birds (Opisthocomus cristatus), 

 were seen almost daily. They fussed and fluttered among 

 the dense vegetation, but could not be induced to leave 

 their dark retreat. There were also nesting-trees of the 

 black and yellow orioles, better known as caciques, which 

 are about the size of a blue jay; sometimes a single tree 

 contained thirty or more nests placed close together, and 

 also invariably a number of large wasp-nests were placed 



