CROSSING THE BOLIVIAN HIGHLANDS 281 



wind sprang up, so that it was difficult to keep one's place 

 in the saddle. The mountainside is covered with small, 

 roxmd rocks of uniform size, such as one would usually 

 expect to find in a dry river-bed. 



Beyond the high summit of the first ridge lies the high 

 mountain valley in which is located the Quechua village 

 of Cuchicancha (meaning "pig-pen"). There are several 

 score of huts scattered about in httle groups, and built of 

 rocks, with thatched roofs. The Indians speak practically 

 no Spanish, and live in much the same way as they did in 

 the days of Atahualpa. In order to cultivate the land 

 they have gathered the rocks which everywhere carpet the 

 ground into huge piles, and also built fences of them; large 

 quantities of potatoes, ocas, and avas are grown. 



Each family owns a flock of sheep, which apparently 

 replace the llamas of olden days, although flocks of the lat- 

 ter animals are stiU to be seen frequently; also a few pigs 

 and burros. They have likewise taken to cultivating 

 wheat, oats, and rye. 



We decided to spend a week at Cuchicancha and suc- 

 ceeded in persuading an old Quechua man to rent us his 

 hut for that length of time. He spoke not a word of Span- 

 ish, or at least pretended that he knew nothing whatever 

 of that language, so all conversation had to be carried on 

 through an interpreter. As our coming was a complete 

 surprise to him, he asked if he could occupy the habitation 

 with us for a few nights until he had time to find sleeping- 

 quarters elsewhere; to this we, of course, consented. One 

 night I was awakened by loud talking, and much to my 

 astonishment found that the aged Indian, who had evi- 

 dently taken too much chicha during the day, was restlessly 

 tossing on his pile of sheepskins and blankets, and talking 

 in' his sleep — ^in excellent Spanish. After that we conversed 

 with him without the aid of an interpreter, and he under- 

 stood every word of it, too. 



The weather at Cuchicancha was splendid; it was autumn, 

 and while the nights were cold, the days were always com- 



