362 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



ditional one. December is chosen for this purpose because 

 it is the wannest and most pleasant month of the year. 



The time allotted us for work in Bolivia had nearly ex- 

 pired. We had thoroughly enjoyed our lengthy sojourn 

 in the republic, and look forward to revisiting it in the fu- 

 ture. Our schedule called for rather extensive work in the 

 Argentine, so, after a great deal of difficulty, we succeeded 

 in collecting a caravan of riding and pack mules for the 

 ride of over three hundred miles to La Quiaca, on the Ar- 

 gentine frontier. Ordinarily the trip from Sucre to La 

 Quiaca should not be undertaken on mule-back. One should 

 go to Potosi in one day's time, utilizing the semiweekly 

 motor-car service. A railroad connects the latter place 

 with a smaU station a few miles this side of Tupiza, and 

 from this point one may reach La Quiaca in two days by 

 carriage. During the rainy season, however, both auto- 

 mobile and carriage service are suspended; and the dif- 

 ficulty of twice securing mules on which to cover the two 

 stretches of road between railway terminals and the de- 

 lays and other inconveniences are so great that we decided 

 to travel the entire distance with a pack-train. This also 

 gave us an opportunity to see the country. 



The expedition left Sucre December 22. The caravan 

 was appallingly large, for we were taking our entire out- 

 fit, and it required no less than six Quechuas to look after 

 the mules and burros. All supplies, also, had to be taken 

 with us, as very little is to be had from the Indians, who 

 are virtually the sole inhabitants of the cheerless highlands. 

 There are a number of large villages; it is true, but the person 

 who relies on the natives for maintenance is as likely as 

 not to have to live on coca and chicha, or suffer for his im- 

 providence. 



By noon we had reached the Cachimayo at a point where, 

 ordinarily, it is fordable; but a heavy rain had caused the 

 river to rise and we were confronted by a series of roaring 

 cataracts covered with foam and debris washed down from 

 the mountains. The mules were unloaded and driven into 



