386 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



the range, which at this point attains an altitude of ovei' 

 ten thousand feet, was necessary. We secured a pack-train 

 of mules from Acheral, and one morning at one. o'clock 

 started up the steep slope. A full moon showered a flood 

 of light upon the earth, but the overhanging branches 

 formed a thick canopy over the trail, impermeable to the 

 silvery radiance save when an occasional breeze stirred 

 the leafy arch, thus permitting fitful shafts of light to pierce 

 the darkness of the tunnel, and to fall in quavering, danc- 

 ing blotches on the ground. We could almost feel the im- 

 penetrable blackness which closed in from all sides like 

 water in a deep, dark pool. The light touch of a streamer 

 dangling from the moss-festooned branches overhead, or 

 the velvety swish of fern leaves protruding beyond the pro- 

 tecting walls of tree-trunks, made it seem as if the forest 

 were peopled with hovering, invisible forms. No sound 

 disturbed the brooding silence of the night except the dull 

 hoof-beats of the mules as, guided by some mysterious in- 

 stinct, they cautiously picked their way through the muddy 

 and rock-strewn lane. 



Hour after hour we followed blindly in the wake of the 

 bell-mule, winding back and forth along the mountain- 

 side, but mounting ever upward. The latter part of the 

 way seemed to lie near the course of a small mountain tor- 

 rent, for we were almost constantly within hearing dis- 

 tance of rushing water. Finally, we emerged from the forest, 

 and, just as day was breaking, reached a brush-covered 

 strip of cotmtry, the elevation of which is five thousand 

 feet. This continued to the top of the ridge, two thousand 

 feet above. Then there was a depression of considerable 

 extent, filled with rank, low vegetation and infested with 

 swarms of bloodthirsty flies which render it uninhabitable. 



After ascending another ridge, the trail led gently down- 

 ward into a level valley a dozen miles long and from one 

 to two miles wide. Herds of cattle were grazing on the 

 abundant grass; a few small areas had been enclosed with- 

 in stone walls and planted in maize; and at the far end, 



