398 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



other bird frequently found in company with any or all 

 of the former was a species of brush-bird the size of a blue 

 jay, but of a brown color; it built stick-nests three feet 

 across that must have weighed up to fifty pounds. We 

 also saw for the first time a bird whose habits reminded 

 us greatly of the road-runner. It ran along the ground 

 with crest erected and tail held high, and was so wary that 

 one could not approach it within shooting distance. But 

 the moment it reached a thicket and hopped up into the 

 branches it lost practically all caution and we could get to 

 within a few yards of it. Perhaps the bird's chief enemies 

 are terrestrial — Whence its extremely suspicious nature while 

 on the ground, and the apparent feeling of safety when 

 in a bush or tree. 



Next, we again headed for the Chaco, having as our goal 

 a station called Avia Terai, about half-way to Resistencia 

 on the Paraguay River. The train was packed with Itahan 

 home-seekers; they were a noisy, quarrelsome lot. Many of 

 them were drunk or ill, and so many unsavory things were 

 occurring constantly in the coaches (there were no compart- 

 ment-cars), that we remained in the buffet-car. An aged 

 bishop, accompanied by two priests, were fellow passengers. 

 The prelate got off at each stop to bless the crowds that 

 had collected to see him, and then as many as possible 

 knelt to kiss his ring before the train pulled out. After the 

 trio retimied to their table, the two priests promptly fell 

 asleep while their venerable superior read from a small 

 prayer-book. I wondered why he tolerated such sleepy, 

 uninteresting companions. At midnight we reached Afia- 

 tuya and changed to another train. This place was one of 

 wild confusion. There were mountains of luggage piled on 

 the platform, and mobs of excited people rushing wildly 

 about in vain attempts to locate their belongings. I was 

 alarmed over the safety of our own possessions, so stationed 

 the faithful Antonio near the door of the baggage-car with 

 instructions to let me know when unloading began; we then 

 secured peons to immediately carry the trunks and bags 



