^ CHAPTER XXVI 



THE LAKE REGION OF WESTERN ARGENTINA— THE 

 HEART OF THE WINE COUNTRY 



Inhabitants of the vine-growing districts of Argentina 

 claim that their country produces more wine than CaH- 

 fornia; and, judging by appearances as we entered the 

 Province of San Juan, there seemed to be abundant evi- 

 dence to support the belief that the yield of grapes is enor- 

 mous. The soil is sandy and the seepage of snow-water 

 from the mountains is ample to make up for the lack of 

 rainfall. 



Many of the vineyards are of great extent. Grapes of 

 numerous varieties are grown, and for size and flavor they 

 are unequalled by any I have ever seen anywhere. Wines 

 of many kinds, and grades, are made, and they are of uni- 

 formly excellent quality. Even the champagnes are good. 

 The price at which they sell is low in that part of the coun- 

 try — so low in fact that even the laboring class drink them 

 with their meals. In Buenos Aires they cost as much as 

 the imported article, owing to the fact that freight between 

 San' Juan or Mendoza and Buenos Aires equals or exceeds 

 shipping charges from Spain, Portugal, and France. 



The city of San Juan reminded us of Salta; perhaps it is 

 not quite so large or up-to-date, but it is nevertheless not 

 unattractive; we spent httle time there as we had been in- 

 vited to a finca, where there is a lake of considerable size, 

 to shoot ducks. 



One of my ambitions had always been to find a place 

 where ducks and geese were really plentiful — in fact abun- 

 dant enough to furnish an interesting pastime, observing 

 them imder conditions that were not too trying, and where 

 they would also furnish good sport. We had heard of the 

 wonderful shooting on Lake Titicaca, but upon our arrival 



412 



