1 8 Through the Yang-tse Gorges 



river's summer level, to join the boats which were to convey 

 us to Shasze, the port at which we are to exchange into 

 the larger boat which takes us up the rapids. The native 

 passenger boats, which ply to Shasze and elsewhere, were 

 moored some distance up the Han river, an affluent which 

 falls into the Yang-tse on its left or western bank, about a 

 mile above the concession limits. Here, after rowing up 

 against the stream past endless tiers of up-country junks, 

 we at length found our boat, which was destined to be my 

 residence during the next fourteen days. This boat had 

 been engaged nearly a week before, but nothing would 

 induce the owner to bring her down-stream, and let me 

 embark in comfort off my host's door. The real reason of 

 his refusal I found to be that each line of boats has its 

 special mooring-ground. The Han river, here about 200 

 yards wide, and running with a very deep rapid current, was 

 jammed with thousands of junks, large and small, waiting 

 for business. I now thought we were at last off; not at all, 

 my companion had still some business to transact, and the 

 cook was still ashore. I let him go, and waited patiently 

 in the confined cabin six long hours, when, finding it would 

 be impossible to make a start that night, I took a sampan 

 across to the Hanyang shore, and, despite the frightful 

 mud of a Chinese street after a fortnight's snow and rain, 

 stretched my weary legs by a climb up the lofty hill, from 

 which one enjoys a famous and splendid view over the 

 united cities of Wuchang, Hanyang, and Hankow, the 

 scattered mountains, and the vast swampy plain. Returning 

 on board to a cold dinner, I slept as well as I could amidst 

 the unpleasant surroundings of a Chinese junk-fleet at New 

 Year time, 



Tuesday, Febniary i'jth, at six a.m., found us rowing down 

 the swift current of the Han ; when reaching the Yang-tse 



