( n ) 



CHAPTER III. 



ICHANG AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



The foreign community— Fishing with otters—" Feng Shui "—The 

 conglomerate country — Cave of the Dragon King — Underground 

 lake — The "Dome" — Startling coup-d'ceil—QXomA-xmsX Moun- 

 tain — Chinese country house — Unexpected hospitality — Master 

 and servant — Auspicious site — Woodcutters — Steep climb — 

 Chinese " Pahs "• — Taoist temple — Magnificent prospect — Ascent 

 of the Golden Peak— Chinese candles— A model hotel bill- 

 Plank bridge — Return to Ichang. 



The foreign community of Ichang, in 1883, comprised a 

 Commissioner of Customs with an indoor assistant, who 

 combined medical with clerical duties, and two outdoor 

 examiners. These, with the missionaries — one Scotch 

 Presbyterian and his wife, and two Roman Catholics — then 

 formed the whole resident foreign population. The British 

 Consul appointed to the port resided, at the time of my 

 visit, at Hankow. I was much pleased at finding a medico 

 here, as, shortly before landing, while walking along the 

 river-bank, following the boat, a dog had rushed out of the 

 wheat, and bitten me in the calf of the leg through my 

 knickerbocker stocking, and I now let myself be thoroughly 

 cauterized. These dogs in China are the bane of one's 

 existence; they have a mad antipathy to the barbarian, 

 that the longest acquaintance fails to modify; the scent, 

 appearance, or sound of his movements seems to infuriate 



