Contents xv 



CHAPTER IX. 



CHUNG-KING. 



PAGE 



Ponies — Silk weaving — Prehistoric caves — A fine country-house 

 — A Catholic chapel — A Buddhist oracle — The coal-workings 

 — Cost of getting and transporting coal — An eviction scrim- 

 mage — Ventilation — A huge coalfield — A farmhouse — 

 Opium-smoking — Agile ponies — Return by boat — Fine 

 scenery — Legends — The river rising — Trade guilds — 

 Another country-house — Civility of the Chung-kingese — 

 The women's feet — The Manchus — A pseudo-European 

 dinner 176 



CHAPTER X. 



THE DOWNWARD VOYAGE. 



Adieux — A crowded boat — Change to a salt-junk— A strange 

 manoeuvre — A day on the rocks — Sham tea — Equipage of 

 the junk — The gorges once more — Mooring for the night — 

 Delays— Change to a wupan — Pirates— Feng Tu '. .213 



CHAPTER XI. 



HANKOW. 



Return to Ichang — Hankow — Changes in the river — Lifeboats — 

 Accidents — The "awakening" of China — Pliny on the 

 Chinese . 242 



CHAPTER XIL 



THE PHYSIOGRAPHY OF THE YANG-TSE VALLEY. 



ength and fall— Advance of the delta— Direction of river's 

 course — ^The gorges and rapids — Absence of roads — Coal- 

 fields — The flora and fauna— Mineral wealth . . . 253 



CHAPTER XIII. 



THE NEW "GLORIOUS" RAPID. 



The great landslide — Earthquake phenomena — Steps taken to 



modify the rapid— Need of Admiralty survey . . 272 



