PAGE 



xiv Contents 



CHAPTER IV. 



ABOVE ICHANG. 



Start for the gorges— Grand £-(p«/-(/'«/7— Tourist's inscriptions— A 

 factory of boulders — Advantages of a light boat — A temple 

 school — ^A " Feng Shui " problem . . . • • 5° 



CHAPTER V. 



IN SZECHUAN. 



The Customs at Kwei-chow— Transit passes— Their effect on the 

 provincial ofiScials — The drought — Anthracite at Kwei-chow 

 — Visit to a mandarin — A concert — Management of the 

 junks 87 



CHAPTER VI. 



ON TO CHUNG-KING. 



Iron workers — Census taking — Site of old Chung-chow — A rain- 

 bringing opera — Deforesting of the country — Feng-tu — The 

 temple of the Chinese Pluto — Fu-chow — Chang-chow — First 

 sight of Chung-king 107 



CHAPTER VII. 



CHUNG-KING. 



The weather — Morning calls — Visit to a Chinese country house — 

 A fine road — A tedious meal — Personal uncleanliness — The 

 Tung family — "Feng Shui " again — A tough yarn — An 

 inscription 138 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CHUNG-KING. 



Return to town— Catholic and other missions — Visitors — The 

 China Inland Mission — Native post — A Taoist temple — The 

 priests hard-up — Chinese banks — An ephemeral town — 

 Across the river — The Catholic cathedral — Charming sur- 

 roundings of the city — Filth within — Dull evenings — Chess 

 — Malt liquor — A public garden — The walls — Slow progress 

 of the missionaries . . . 153 



