Yun-yang : Chang-fei's Temple 99 



In the city and suburb, which has little trade, are several 

 imposing temples — one, the " Wan sho kung," or " Temple 

 of Longevity," has a highly decorated front wall, with inlaid 

 bronze tablets, the most conspicuous bearing the inscrip- 

 tion, " Hsien li tsung," i.e. " Genii recorder bequeath 

 footsteps " — a phrase, like most of those adorning temples, 

 having little meaning except to those versed in Bhuddist 

 and Taoist lore. But, on the opposite side of the river, on 

 a picturesque cliff backed by wooded hills — such a spot as 

 in the United States would be selected for an advertisement 

 of " Smith's Liver Pad," or " Jones's Liniment," — our atten- 

 tion is drawn to a colossal inscription in those elegant 

 Chinese characters, which are a decoration in themselves, of 

 the four words, " Ling tsung chien ku," i.e. " Ethereal bell 

 one thousand ages." When a fire breaks out in the district, 

 this magic bell rings of its own accord. Immediately above 

 this rock inscription stands a gay-looking range of buildings 

 comprising a temple, dedicated to the hero-saint, Chang-fei, 

 a pork butcher who died fighting for his country in the wars 

 of the " three kingdoms." 



The temple is solidly built, in splendid repair, and 

 gorgeously decorated ; it comprises three courts and a two- 

 storied pavilion, extending along the river-front. On one 

 side is a handsome stone bridge, looking up which is seen a 

 waterfall, which comes down a steep, narrow glen, the whole 

 forming a scene which would make as pretty a picture of 

 Eastern scenery as I have ever seen. We are moored on 

 the opposite bank, waiting for the new Chai-jen (ofiScial 

 messenger), who is to accompany and pass us on to the 

 next district city. Wan Hsien ; and I take advantage of the 

 enforced delay to cross over in a ferry-boat and visit the 

 place. We climbed up the almost perpendicular rock until 

 we reached a flight of about a hundred stone steps, which 



