1 1 o Through the Yang-tse Gorges 



men suddenly ceasing their vigorous rowing, jumping out 

 with the tow-line, and tracking us up to the head of one of 

 the rocks, when we began again our involuntary descent, 

 until we reached an eddy on the opposite bank, up which 

 we rowed in peace. All these rocks are perfectly level, 

 having been originally all one piece, through which the 

 river has carved out an infinity of channels, are of the same 

 height, and are covered in summer. Above this stretches 

 another extensive, flat, rocky point, until we come to a basin 

 some four miles by six, in the centre of which is a steep, 

 beautifully-wooded island of the same height as the banks 

 (about five hundred feet), with the two thousand feet 

 mountains immediately behind. This is called " Hoa Hoa 

 Chen " (" Flowery Walls "), and is the ancient site of Chung- 

 chow, the city at which we are due to-morrow, and which 

 is now situated ten miles higher up. The site of the old 

 city was changed to that of the modem one owing to a 

 parricide which occurred there — a noteworthy custom of 

 ancient times, the unfilial spot being razed level with the 

 earth. 



A curious legend is attached to the "Shih pao chai." 

 Formerly this remarkable rock possessed a hole, from which 

 flowed a stream of rice sufficient for the wants of the three 

 priests living there. The head ppest, wishing to have rice 

 to sell, enlarged the hole, when at once the flow of rice 

 ceased. Unfortunately, my boatmen would not stop to 

 allow me to land and verify the existence of this super- 

 natural opening. 



Walking along the shore, a constant source of amusement 

 is to watch the army of trackers attached to each big junk 

 as they toil along, harnessed to the inexorable tow-line, over 

 ground, which practice alone is enabling me to get over, 

 armed with a big stick and comfortable boots, and choosing 



