130 Through the Yang-tse Gorges 



in Hankow comes from this place. I went ashore, and 

 walked through some of the streets, which were wide, well 

 paved, and the houses roomy, as everywhere in Szechuan, 

 but the people and surroundings little less filthy than through- 

 out China generally. We brought up here for the night at 

 six o'clock, instead of at seven, as usual, in a position where 

 my Lao-ta and crew could sleep at ease, there being no fear 

 of thieves (of which notices, warning boatmen not to moor 

 for the night in remote spots, were painted on the rocks 

 in several places coming along), and too conveniently near 

 the usual along shore latrines. 



Distance, nine li (twenty-two miles) ; total from Ichang, 

 384 miles. 



Friday, April 6th. — Thunderstorm with heavy rain in 

 night j cleared at eight a.m., with strong north-easterly wind 

 and lower temperature. 



The five Chai-jen (messenger-men) who escorted us from 

 Fu-chow in their own boat left us here, and neither asked 

 for nor received a present. They were relieved by two 

 sickly wretches, the hands of one being covered with leprous 

 sores ; happily, they too had their own boat. These Chai- 

 jen, or, as they are commonly called, "Ya-men runners," 

 are attached to every Hsien or magistracy (Sub-prefecture) 

 in large cities, to the number of 1000 or more, and pick up 

 a living as best they can, being paid by the job. Their great 

 source of income is the law-suits, which are always going on, 

 when both parties have to spend freely to get a hearing. 

 Taking their cue from their superiors, who are here most 

 agreeably polite to the foreigner, I found this usually 

 truculent and detested class obsequiously civil. 



We started at nine a.m. The river had fallen two feet 

 in the night, and our boat grounded in consequence. Thg 

 water was very thick after the heavy rain. The country 



