" Cross Ranges" 263 



flanks of these " cross ranges," have since been worn away 

 by erosion into a fantastically rugged landscape, recalling 

 the picturesque scenery of the Saxon Switzerland, but on a 

 grander scale. Every stream, large and small, has cut its 

 way down and flows in a steep ravine. Hence the land-roads 

 are nothing but the usual narrow footpaths broken by a suc- 

 cession of ascending and descending stone staircases, up and 

 down which the sturdy little Kwei-chow ponies scamper with 

 astonishing nonchalance. It is in spots where these sand- 

 stone clifis overhang the streams, that we find the numerous 

 square porthole-looking entrances to the dwellings of the 

 aboriginal inhabitants of the country, who are spoken of by 

 the modern inhabitants of the province as " Mantse." Coal 

 underlies the whole formation, and is exposed at the surface 

 in the gorges of the Yang-tse and its affluents, where these 

 cut through the cross ranges. It is largely mined by the 

 primitive Chinese methods, and forms the staple fuel of the 

 country ; the junks at the upper waters all have their brick 

 chimney, and at meal times, when vomiting the soft-coal- 

 smoke, have all the appearance of primitive steamers. 



The limestone mountains of the great gorges are equally 

 cut by ravines splitting them up in every direction. Each 

 little stream has cut out its gorge, often more picturesque, 

 though perhaps less imposing, than those of the Great River 

 with its rocks and rapids. Up these side glens there is no 

 other path than the bed of the stream, which has to be per- 

 petually crossed and recrossed on slippery stepping-stones. 

 The vegetation is most luxuriant, the country being well- 

 watered, and the limestone debris affording a most favourable 

 soil. Apart from the ferns, which, as might be expected, are 

 found in endless variety, flowering plants, many of which have 

 hitherto been credited alone to Japan, cover the rocks in 

 dazzling profusion. A few of the most common to be met 



