The Dreaded Hsin-£an 295 



hundred to less than two hundred yards. The river was 

 dammed up. A lake-Hke expanse was immediately formed 

 above the landslip, the water from which burst into a similar 

 expanse below in a frightful cataract, reminding one forcibly 

 of the rapids of the Niagara River below the falls. Below 

 this rapid we found 320 junks moored along both shores, 

 some discharging their cargoes for transport to fresh junks 

 above the rapid, others waiting their turn to ascend. We 

 steamed up past them in the five-knot current, taking our 

 place at the head of the line in preparation for our ascent 

 on the following morning. It was a picturesque scene, the 

 junks moored in a lake-like expanse surrounded by high 

 mountains, and now gay with many lanterns, while numerous 

 sampans plied across the river, ferrjdng passengers and 

 supplies to the busy fleet. Next day we steamed up in the 

 eddy below the falls and engaged a local pilot. Here a long 

 discussion arose as to whether our little vessel could get up 

 at all; for, in the channel close in shore, along the left 

 bank, the only one safe to tow up at this season, there was 

 said to be barely four feet of water. Our draft was three feet 

 six inches, and, owing to the high waves, the four feet of 

 water could not be depended upon throughout. We were 

 advised to wait a month, until a few inches rise should ensure 

 our safety. Determined, however, to risk the ascent, we 

 lightened the boat by landing our coal and stores, and set 

 out with three hundred men hauling on three main tow-lines 

 ahead, with shorter lines carried ashore at right angles to the 

 boat, acting as guys to prevent her taking a sheer, and so 

 possibly breaking loose into mid-river, where she would in- 

 evitably have been swamped. Our engine staff again shied, but 

 were ultimately placated by my tying our one lifebuoy round 

 the body of the " chief," a middle-aged man, who controlled 



