1U8 RATIONAL FRUIT CULTURE. 



spring, in order to let the warm sunlight reach the ground. 

 A brick or two should be taken out of the greenhouse wall, 

 aiul when I he rod has been passed through, the space around 

 it should be stuffed with dry straw, which will serve a double 

 purpose— prevent fraying of the bark against the edges of 

 the brickwork, and exclude the cold air. The vine should 

 then be shortened to a strong bud, three or four feet frona 

 the base. Unless this is done some of the buds may not break, 

 and in any case it is necessary to restrict growth until there are 

 plenty of roots to support it. 



THE FIRST YEAR AFTER PLANTING. 



In its first year the young vine will grow as a single, straight 

 rod, without laterals (side-shoots). It should be tied to the 

 wires — under, not over, them, so that it can be taken down 

 when necessary — and should be allowed to extend unchecked. 

 The wires are sometimes too close to the roof. If they are 

 less than nine inches from it, some of the leaves press against 

 the glass, and the sun's rays shining on their moistened sur- 

 faces cause scorching. A bunch or two of flowers may de- 

 velop, but should be taken off. In summer the lights should 

 be opened freely, and from the middle to the end of the season, 

 in order to ripen the wood, they may be left open at night 

 as well as during the day. After the leaves have fallen, the 

 rod should be cut back to five or six feet. Pruning should 

 always be done at this time. If it is delayed so long that the 

 wounds cannot heal before growth commences, the result will 

 be "bleeding,'" — that is, loss of sap. Though this can be 

 hlo|ipc(] by means of a styptic, it is very much better to avoid 

 the iicrcssily for anylhiiip of the sort. 



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In each subsequent year the vine sliould he allowed to 

 make sonic additional I('n''Hi imtil the hack wall is reached. 



