226 FISHES I HAVE KNOWN 



Harcourt a fine salmon. Next day there was 

 a discussion in the House on the subject of 

 bi-metallism, after which Sir WilUam sent the 

 following acknowledgment of the gift : — 



" Dear Montagu, — I have received your bi- 

 metallist fish ; it is as bright as silver, and worth 

 its weight in gold ! " 



Opinions differ as to a salmon's best size for 

 table use. Some people hold that the big fish are 

 coarse, others that the medium or even smaller 

 fish are better flavoured. Some prefer their 

 salmon " all alive o'," others with the flesh well 

 set. 



It is said that the quality of salmon varies with 

 the different rivers. The Tweed, the Tay, the 

 Severn, the Wye, the Itchen, and the Shannon 

 each has its enthusiastic advocates. But the con- 

 troversy is no mere modern one. In Queen 

 Elizabeth's reign did not an argument arise 

 between Mr. St. Leger and one of the Bideford 

 Bridge trustees as to whether a Torridge salmon 

 caught above bridge was better and would eat as 

 firm and as flaky as one from below bridge, which 

 burning question was settled in English fashion by 

 a wager, and, of course, a grand dinner ! 



Then there is the debated gastronomical point as 

 to the best cut ; whether it is to be found in the 



