SOME BRITISH FRESH-WATER FISHES 227 



middle, the jowl, or the tail. Mrs. Beeton con- 

 demns the tail, but Mr. W. E. Gladstone always 

 maintained that the best cut was one taken from 

 the middle just where it narrows to the tail, and 

 that a salmon to be in perfection should not exceed 

 6 lbs. or 8 lbs. 



A DEVONSHIRE KIVER. 



Personally I think a 4 lb. salmon trout, with its 

 delicate pink flesh, is superior to any salmon, a 

 continued dietary of which latter fish would soon 

 pall upon the palate. But the idea that in olden 

 times apprentices were fed upon this rich, satiating 

 food is a mistake. What they had was the salted 



