course of time will bring it into universal use, as in a large apiary a 

 considerable amount of time is saved in manipulating colonies. In 

 place of the wooden projecting shoulders for the purpose of self-spacing, 

 as in the Hoffman frames, small staples are driven into the wood on 

 alternate sides, the end bars being the same width from top to bottom. 

 The staples are driven into the top bar on alternate sides about i in. 

 from the ends, so that they project ^ in. ; thus, whichever way the 

 frame is inserted in the hive, the correct spacing-distance is gauged 

 by the staple. 



The asserabhng of frames should receive every consideration. There 

 are many plans for curtailing the labour involved, but whatever 

 method is adopted strict attention must be given to proper nailing. 

 Neglect to secure frames properly will lead to endless worry when 

 brought into use. 



Wiring Frames. 



All frames bought from the manufacturers have three holes through 

 each end bar. These holes are for the purpose of wiring, to prevent 

 the foundation, and later the combs, breaking down on account of 

 heat or when extracting. No. 30 tinned wire is used for this purpose, 

 and the wire must be drawn taut and fastened. Good wiring will 

 enable the beekeeper to handle the combs freely, and even in very hot 

 days there is no risk of their falling from the frames, as is sometimes the 

 case when wiring is not adopted. In using full sheets of foundation it 

 is a distinct advantage to use wire. This holds the foundation in 

 position, and good strong combs are produced. There are many 

 methods of wiring frames, but perhaps the simplest and quickest is to 

 lay the frame flat on the bench, having the spool of wire running 

 freely on a spindle. Partially drive two small tacks in the edge of 

 each end bar, one opposite the top hole and one opposite the bottom 

 one. Now thread the wire through the top holes, starting by the top 

 tack, then back through the centre holes and down through the bottom 

 ones. The end of the wire is now twisted round the bottom tack, 

 which is then driven home. After making the wire taut it is twisted 

 round the top tack, which is then hammered in and the wire cut, thus 

 completing the operation. 



Fitting Foundation to Frames. 



It is not desirable to put the foundation in the frames much before 

 they are required in the hives, otherwise the wax is apt to become 

 somewhat brittle, and the wedges sometimes become loose and allow 

 the foundation to drop. It is important that the sheets of foundation 

 should be well fastened right along the top edge. Care must be taken 

 to see that this edge is perfectly straight, for if one end breaks loose 

 the weight of the bees clustered on it will soon crumple it down, 

 resulting in the ruin of that particular comb, and it will in all probability 

 spoil the next one also. 



The straight edge should be inserted into the centre groove of the 

 top bar. In this, as in all manipulation, practice alone makes perfect. 

 The best method is to hold the frame (previously wired) upside down 

 with the outer groove towards one, then rest the sheet of foundation 

 on the wires, and by taking it between the forefinger and thumb at 

 the ends it can be easily inserted by a slight saw-hke motion. Make 

 certain the edge reaches the bottom of the centre groove right along 

 its entire length. The wedge is then placed in the outer groove. If 

 the wedge is examined it will be noticed that one edge is cut straight 



