33 



be left to the beekeeper to decide whether he will increase his stock 

 by natural swarming or artificially. If the former plan is adopted 

 it will be wise to only allow strong colonies to swarm. If a weak hive 

 is showing symptoms of swarming — i.e., if the bees are building numbers 

 of queen-cells — these should be removed and the colony prevented 

 from swarming until such time as it can be requeened. A swarm from 

 a weak hive is not worth encouraging, because it consists simply of a 

 poor queen, probably failing, and a small cluster of bees. 



If, however, a strong colony has made up its mind to swarm, the 

 best thing to do is to allow it to throw a prime swarm, and then to most 

 rigorously guard against after-swarming. This can best be done by 

 cutting out all the queen-cells save one after the prime swarm has 

 issued. Even then it is wise to carefully watch the parent hive for 

 about ten days after the departure of the prime swarm, because there 

 will be eggs in the old hive, and the bees may continue to raise 

 queen-cells. 



Hiving Swarms. 



When a swarm issues, if headed by a laying-queen, it will, after 

 circling in the air for a short time, settle probably on some tree or 

 shrub. As soon as the swarm has settled into a cluster shake all the 

 bees into a box. Place the box on its side and cover with a clean sack, 

 leaving a small opening for the bees to fly in and out. The swarm may 

 be left alone until late in the afternoon. If by that time it has formed 

 a compact cluster in the box the beekeeper will know that all is well 

 and that it contains a queen. Have the hive in readiness, placed in 

 position where it is to remain. Place a clean sack in front of the 

 entrance, having propped up the front to allow the bees a good space 

 to enter the hive. Dump the bees on the bag as close to the entrance 

 as possible, and very soon they will make their way into the hive. 

 The bag can then be removed and the hive lowered into position. 



In districts where foul-brood is present, or if the beekeeper is sus- 

 picious of his own colonies, it is wise to leave the swarm in the box for at 

 least three or four days. At the end of the period place the bees in the 

 hive as described above, always choosing the late afternoon for settling 

 them in their permanent home. The object of this practice is to induce 

 the bees to utilize the honey in their sacs to draw down comb, and thus 

 rid themselves of honey from the parent hive ; if it is followed there 

 will be far less trouble from disease, and swarms will invariably start 

 clean. 



Unless there is a good honey-flow, or if bad weather sets in, the 

 swarms should be fed inside the hive. This is to give them a good start, 

 and to provide them with material for producing wax. Excellent 

 combs can be produced from sugar-syrup. It is advisable in all cases 

 to hive the swarm on full sheets of foundation, and thus take advantage 

 of the natural instinct of the bees to produce wax after swarming. 

 Very little time will be gained if the bees are put on to drawn-out combs. 

 In the course of a few days it is advisable to examine the frames to 

 note if the queen is laying and to see if the foundation is being drawn 

 out. When the swarm is placed in the hive do not forget to put a mat 

 on top of the frames. It often happens that unless precaution is taken 

 to confine the bees they will commence operations in the roof of the 

 hive, more particularly if gable roofs are used. 



Prevention of Swarming. 



Frequent examinations of the colonies — every week or ten days 

 during the swarming season — for the purpose of cutting out queen- 

 2. — Bee-culture. 



