CARE AND FEEDING OF CHICKS 



PRACTICAL ADVICE ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG CHICKENS IN MAY. JUNE AND JULY- 

 HATCHING AND REARING WITH HENS— FOOD AND FEEDING— BROOD COOPS. RUNS AND SHELTERS- 

 IMPORTANCE OF SHADE IN HOT WEATHER— GREEN FOOD— PREVENTING LOSSES FROM CATS, ETC. 



p. T. WOODS, M. D. 



IN CLIMATES where the apple trees do not bloom until 

 late in May chicks may be hatched as late as July first 

 with the chances good for successful rearing. It is a 

 good plan to stop hatching for the summer within a month 

 or six weeks after apple blossom time as chicks brought out 

 in extreme hot weather are always difficult to rear. Chick- 

 ens that do not get a fair start before the advent of the 

 blackberry season are seldom worth having. Hatching may 

 be safely begun again after the close of dog days. Some 

 poultrymen are successful in hatching the year 'round, but 

 unless there is a cool, shady orchard available for use during 

 the hot season it is wiser not to try to hatch summer chicks. 



Nest Boxes and Sitting Hens 



Broody hens are generally plentiful in May and it is a 

 good time to make use of them. Breeding birds which you 

 intend to hold over another season will go through the sum- 

 mer in better shape if permitted to hatch and rear a brood. 

 Although the care of sitting hens is a very simple > matter, 

 some poultrymen appear to have difficulty in getting good 

 results. On page 16 appears a description of nest boxes 

 and how to set a, hen. 



Keep sitting hens confined on the nest and allow off for 

 food, water and exercise at a regular hour once each day. 

 Let off two, four or six at one time and watch them to pre- 

 vent fights and to see that they return to the proper nests. 

 Provide a box of moist sandy loam for a dust bath, plenty of 

 pure fresh water and a supply of whole and cracked corn, 

 grit and shell where hens can have access to it when off the 

 nest. Chicks will be due in twenty-one days after eggs are 

 set and on eighteenth day the hen should have another dust- 

 ing with insect powder to insure freedom from lice. Let the 

 hen alone at hatching time. If infertile eggs and dead germs 

 have been' removed the chicks will have room enough in the 

 nest. Those who use incubators for hatching will 

 find less labor in handling a large number of eggs than where 

 "natural methods" are employed, but they should always be 

 sure to learn and follow the manufacturer's directions sup- 

 plied with the machines. There is ample time for two good 



incubator hatches before hot weather and at this season the 

 eggs generally hatch well. 



Brooding Coops and Brooding Hens 



Any good sized packing box can be converted into a sat- 

 isfactory brood coop and a fair sized wooden cracker box 

 makes a good brood box when provided with a slat front. 

 Fig. 1 (on this page) is diagram showing front view of 



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Fig. 2 — Side View Diagram Plan of Brood-Coop and Brood Box. Dimensions given in 

 article. "A" Lower half of hinged front to brood-coop, it is made of fine mesh wire netting 

 on wooden frame. "AA" Upper half of hinged front; it is made of fine mesh wire netting 

 covered with muslin on wooden frame. "S" stake or support used to hold up hinged front 

 when same is used as shelter or awning. "BB" Brood Box. 



Fig. 1 — Diagram view of front of Brood-coop with 

 front of brood box shown sitting on floor inside. Brood 

 coop is 3ft. X 3ft., 2ft. 6 in. high in front and 22 in. 

 high in rear. It is shed roofed. Brood-box has slat 

 front as shown and is 18in. wide by 18 in. high by 22 

 in. deep. Center slat is removable to admit hen. "BB" 

 is Brood-box. 



an excellent brood coop containing a brood box. The hen 

 mother is confined Jin "brood box" and chicks have the run 

 of the'coop. 



Fig. 2 (on this page) shows side section view of 

 brood coop and box with front of coop used as an awning. 

 "A" is lower half of hinged front of coop and is made of wire 

 netting (fine mesh) stretched on a Hght wooden frame. "AA" 

 is upper half of hinged front and is made of muslin stretched 

 on wooden frame. This front is hooked or 

 hinged to board at top of brood coop and 

 can be lowered at night to close brood coop, 

 confine chicks and keep out marauding ver- 

 min. If musUn is also protected by wire 

 screen it gives a rat-proof coop. "S" is stake 

 or support used to hold up hinged front. 

 "BB" is brood box in which hen mother is 

 confined. 



Usual dimensions of brood coop are 3ft. 

 wide by 3 ft. deep by 2 ft. 6 in. high in 

 front and 22 in. high in rear. Make it with 

 tight board floor and a tight shed roof. Brood 

 box used in coop may be made 18 inches 

 wide by 18 in. high by 22 in. deep and 

 should have a slatted front. One slat should 

 be removable and slats should be about 

 three inches apart, just enough to confine 

 the hen and give the chicks free passage in 

 and out. 



