ANOTHER DOOR FOR STAVE SILO. 63 



other doors will usually be needed in every second space be- 

 tween there and the top, except that no door will be needed- 

 in the top space, as the silage when settled will be sufficiently 

 low to enable it to be taken out at the door in the space below. 

 Plans should be made for the doors at the time the staves are set. 

 When the place is reached where it is desired to have the doors, 

 a saw should be started in the edge of the stave at the points 

 where the top and bottom of the doors are to come. The saw 

 should be inserted so , that the door can be sawed out on a 

 bevel, making the opening larger on the inside of the silo. (See 

 Fig. 15.) This will enable the door to be removed and put in 

 place only from the inside, and when set in place and pressed 

 down with silage the harder the pressure the tighter will the 

 door fit. After the silo is set up and the hoops have been put 

 on and tightened the cutting out of the doors may be completed. 

 Before doing this, cleats 2 inches by 3 inches and in length equal 

 to the width of the door, Should be made which will conform 

 to the circular shape of the silo. One of these cleats should 

 be securely bolted to the top and one to the bottom of where 

 the door is to be cut. (See Fig. 15.) After the bolting, the 

 door may be sawed out, and it is then ready for use. When 

 set in place at time of filling the silo a piece of tarred paper 

 Inserted at the top and bottom will fill the opening made by the 

 saw and prevent the entrance of any air around the door. 



Another Door for Stave Silo. 



Silage being heavy to handle and pitch up, has made contin- 

 uous doors a popular feature of a few factory-built silos, as it 

 is much easier to get the silage out of the silo for feeding. The 

 illustration. Fig. 19, shows a method of making a, door in home- 

 made silos which is continuous with the exception of a narrow 

 brace piece extending across the opening, under each hoop, 

 to give rigidity to the structure. These pieces should be 

 securely toe-nailed at each end to the staves. The jamb pieces, 

 e, e, should be 2 inches thick, beveled off on the side away 

 from the door, securely spiked to the inside of the stave, as 

 shown, so as to leave a rabbet 2x2 inches. Great care should 

 be taken to have these pieces exactly the same distance apart 

 throughout the entire length, so that the door boards, being 

 sawed the exact length, will fit alike and properly all the way 



