52 PRUNING 
mining its future shape. It is then that the branches 
must be selected which are to form the framework or 
scaffolding of the future tree. For this purpose choose 
four or maybe five of the little side branches which have 
developed during the course of the first year, selecting 
them as far as possible 6 to 8 inches apart, and nicely 
distributed all round the future trunk of the tree. Do not 
on any account have them all starting at the same place. 
If you do they are pretty sure to split apart when the 
tree begins to carry heavy loads of fruit. Cut off all 
other side branches, and shorten back the four or 
five that you keep to about two-thirds of their length, 
or say to a length of 12 to 16 inches. If the branches 
grow fairly upright, cut just above an eye that looks 
towards the outside of the tree. If they grow flat and 
almost horizontal, cut to an eye that looks towards the 
inside of the tree. A good example of a tree which must 
always be cut to an outer eye, because of its very upright 
growth, is Northern Spy. Of those with a spreading 
habit, and which consequently need to be cut to an inner 
eye, it will suffice to mention Jonathan. In pruning 
small wood of one year’s growth, always cut it upwards 
and aslant, just below a bud in such a way that the bud 
sits at the top of the slant. 
Sreconp YxEAR’s Prunine.—In pruning the second 
spring after planting you proceed pretty much as in 
pruning the first spring, except that the branches you 
select for keeping will now be placed on the four or five 
side branches which you kept the year before. In re- 
moving all other side branches cut to a length of about 
2inches. Some authorities leave as much as 4 to 5 inches ; 
