OENAMENTAL PLUMES 161 



the better types of ostrich-feathers and fabulous 

 sums were paid for other plumes. 



Until the reign of Henry VIII feathers for orna- 

 mental purposes had been worn by men only, but 

 now they began to appear in the head-gear of 

 women. Under Elizabeth they became a fixed 

 feminine fashion, a fact which caused their im- 

 mediate wane as a component of masculine attire. 

 So quickly did the wearing of feathers by men die 

 out that by the close of the next reign plumes were 

 relegated to the military only. Henceforth they 

 were to be worn by women even down to the pres- 

 ent day. 



Plume Hunters 



Feathers to be used for ornamental purposes 

 must be smooth, clean, and fresh-looking. They 

 must be secured from the bird before sufficient 

 time has elapsed to become frayed and worn by 

 continued usage ; in other words, feathers should 

 be taken shortly after the bird has completed its 

 molt. Some birds molt twice a year, others only 

 once, but, whichever may be the case, the brightest 

 plumage is assumed during the mating season. 

 Most plumes, then, are secured when the bird has 

 a nest — a, fact which gives rise to high mortality 

 among the young of the species through starvation 

 and a wholesale destruction of eggs. 



