walls will be moist and the ducklings will soon be out after they 

 begin to come, though they may be 48 hours from pipping to ex- 

 clusion. Plenty of moisture and ventilation help to a good hatch. 

 Some machines will not hatch duck eggs, it i? said. 



ARTIFICIAL BROODING. 



Most brooders are a gamble for the handler at first, whether 

 chicks or ducklings are to be raised, because so much good judg- 

 ment has to be added to any instructions that may be given. To 

 be sure that the heat is not below 100 in some part of the ma- 

 chine, that the birds can get away from the heat if it gets too 

 high, and that there is abundance of fresh air without drafts are 

 the three cardinal points in handling the brooder itself. For the 

 first four or five days, ducklings must be watched closely to see 

 that they do not get cast and chilled. They need something to 

 coax them to exercise after a bit. They do not need urging to 

 eat. They know best on this point, and will eat eagerly when 

 the right time comes. Little and often, and not too Hberally, 

 must be the word, because the one difficulty with feeding ducks 

 is indigestion. 



The brooder should be located on a grass plot, as ducks need 

 green feed quite as much as young chicks do. When this is 

 scanty, sprouted oats will help out. Dry bread soaked in milk 

 is best for a starter. Some use a chick feed with mostly wheal 

 and corn, with grit. After a week the ducklings become very in- 

 dependent. Water, grit or sand and charcoal are all among the 

 best helps to success. The charcoal is a sort of insurance against 

 indigestion. We do not use it all the time, but if at any time, 

 they get too heavy a meal, charcoal is added to the next one. 

 Some keep charcoal before the birds all the time. 



A shed-Hke house, situated on sloping land, usually open to 

 the sun, but planned to close at night when necessary and having 



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