AT. 28.] JOURNAL. 207 



like it. I have walked over this ground again ; and 

 one is never wearied with the sight. . . . The street 

 musicians here are very good. A party stops at the 

 door of the cafe : a man with a violin, his wife and 

 son each with a guitar, and they perform several airs 

 exceedingly well, the woman sometimes accompanying 

 with her voice. She enters the cafe with the little 

 wooden cup in her hand, and is well satisfied with a 

 kreutzer (about half a cent) from those who choose to 

 give, and a sweet " grazia " in the softest Italian ex- 

 presses her thanks. There is one cafe here frequented 

 almost exclusively by Turks, who sit smoking their 

 large pipes with such an air of ridiculous gravity. 

 Their turbans or the red caps they often wear, their 

 flowing robes and their nether garments, which are 

 something between pantaloons and petticoats, are 

 very queer. . . . 



I spare you a detailed account of my movements to- 

 day and yesterday, of the fine churches, enough to fur- 

 nish cathedrals to half a dozen cities, of the arsenal, its 

 ship-yard, the antique lions, the public garden, the Ar- 

 menian convent, the gondolas and my rides therein. 

 I have enjoyed it greatly, and have laid up a stock for 

 future enjoyment, for I shall read hereafter of Venice 

 with greater interest. One who travels as rapidly as 

 I do, if he would enjoy the full benefit of his journey, 

 should know almost everything before he leaves home. 

 The true way for those who have time and means suf- 

 ficient is to study the history of each place on the 

 spot with all its monuments and relics around them. 

 So more might be learned in one month than in a year 

 at home. If I had what I am not likely to have, — 

 a family of children to bring up, money sufficient for 

 the purpose, and no other duties to prevent, I think I 



