220 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. [1839, 



beautiful greenhouses. He has fitted up his house 

 very tastefully, and filled it with all manner of strange 

 things, arms, idols, and so forth. His collection of 

 living plants is larger than that of Schonbrunn, 

 though the trees are younger. 



Several days after my arrival I called to pay my re- 

 spects to our minister here, Mr. Muhlenberg, and the 

 secretary of legation, Mr. Clay. Philip and myself 

 also spent an evening at Mr. Clay's, where we met 

 Mr. and Mrs. Muhlenberg, and their daughter, a 

 young lady of about seventeen ; also Mrs. Clay, a 

 pretty woman, and Mr. Schwartz (the American con- 

 sul here) and his wife, who both speak English indif- 

 ferently well. Muhlenberg seems quite sick of living 

 here, and speaks of the Austrians with anything but 

 praise. 



We went one evening to a public garden, of which 

 there are many here, to hear the most celebrated mu- 

 sician here, Mr. Strauss. A few kreutzers are charged 

 for admission, and the company are nearly all seated, 

 at little tables, eating a substantial supper, or sipping 

 coffee or ices, as they incline, while Strauss with his 

 fine band played the finest music, mostly pieces of 

 his own composition. It was the best music I ever 

 heard. 



Philip left me on Monday evening and went to 

 Prague. On Tuesday I arranged passport, left par- 

 cels to be sent to Hamburg, took leave ; came out to 

 Nussdorf after dinner, from which the steamboat 

 leaves, and after seeing my luggage deposited safely 

 on board, I climbed the Leopoldsberg, a steep moun- 

 tain between eight hundred and nine hundred feet 

 high, and enjoyed the beautiful and extensive view 

 from its summit, — a fine view of Vienna, of the 



