230 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. [1839, 



ing now for it to clear up that I may climb the Mbnchs- 

 berg, and enjoy the prospect that is said to be so 

 fine. At midday I had hopes of a pleasant afternoon, 

 but it is now raining harder than ever. 



In this region, as in the retired parts of Styria, 

 through which I passed to Vienna, you are charmed 

 with the kind-hearted simplicity of the people. If 

 you meet them in walking, they always give you some 

 word of greeting, and commonly take off their hats 

 and bow to you ; yet there seems to be nothing servile 

 or cringing in it. You get a porter to carry your 

 baggage, who, instead of asking for more when you 

 have given him already more than he expected to re- 

 ceive, takes off his hat, makes you a low bow, and 

 thanks you most heartily, though without any palaver. 

 So with the servants, who never ask anything, and I 

 suppose would not if you were to forget them alto- 

 gether ; I doubt if they would ever remind you ; you 

 give them about a third part of what an English ser- 

 vant would expect, and you have them all most heartily 

 wishing you bon voyage or gliickliche reise, accord- 

 ing to the language they speak. In some places they 

 say the chambermaid kisses your hand, but this has 

 not hapj)ened to me yet. The women, when not ren- 

 dered wholly masculine in appearance by performing 

 the labor of men, which is very common, are almost 

 universally good-looking, and in such vigorous health. 

 I do not admire their head-dress, which is ordinarily 

 a black silk thing tied closely around the head and 

 tied in rather fantastic bows behind. The women of 

 Linz and all this part of the Danube wear, when in 

 full dress, a cap of tinsel or gold lace, shaped exactly 

 like the Roman helmet, which fits close to the top 

 of the head. But fashions never leave this world ; 



