34 



THE DAHLIA. 



Plants should be encouraged to make short stocky growth until they come into bud. Then 

 disbud leaving the terminal bud and eyes at the base of the shoot for a further supply of blooms. 

 There are many conflictions in Dahlia growing and to the amateur or exhibitor, where dis- 

 budding is followed you can trench your soil to two or three feet in depth and you cannot get 

 the soil too rich ; yet, commercially, moderation is essential. 



When the flowers commence to grow smaller is the logical and proper time to fertilize. 

 Apply any good fertilizer broad-cast or any kind of manure available; but it is better to give 

 two moderate applications than too much at one time. Many believe you cannot get soil too 

 rich, but this is a fallacy in open air cultivation at least. If a long wet spell follows too much 

 fertilizer, especially if rich in ammonia, the flowers will be large, but so soft as to be practically 

 worthless for use. We have seen immense flowers that were so soft they wilted and never looked 

 right after being cut. 



'■ These flowers were worthless commercially but would have been the acme of perfection 

 to the amateur. 



Under this heading I will call attention to plants which have become hard and woody, as 

 frequently happens when planted early, especially if the plants are large. 



Do not hesitate to cut them back to encourage new growth, because, as stated previously, 

 the Dahlia blooms on the soft growth only, and if for any reason the growth has been checked 

 or the buds blasted, cut them back. As late as August 1st you can cut your plants down to the 

 ground if they are not growing and blooming and you will by the latter part of September get 



the finest results. 



Plants affected with thrips or red spider should be cut 

 down to the ground, handling them carefully so as to destroy 

 all the insects with the tops if possible, and give the plants a 

 chance to send up new shoots from the roots. These plants 

 should have good culture and fertilizer if the soil is not rich. 



Care must always be taken in disbudding that the terminal 

 bud has not been injured. Insects, dry or hot weather are the 

 principal causes. If the terminal bud is not perfect and healthy 

 leave one of the other buds. Where there is doubt it is well to 

 leave the first pair as well as the terminal, to insure a flower, 

 and leaving the best after they have developed sufficiently to 

 be sure of them. 



Different varieties having dift'erent habits of growth, I have 

 tried to make disbudding plain by using a specified variety with 

 illustrations. I used John Wanamaker because it responds most 

 marvelously, and does not show its real size and beauty unless ' 

 disbudded, as it is such an early and profuse bloomer. Other 

 varieties can be handled according to their habit ''of. growth, 

 using the same principle. 



Do not forget that no matter how far down you disbud 

 the eyes will break out and give shoots that in turn can be dis- 

 budded, the process continuing until frost, and the roots will then 

 be excellent for the following year. 



Pompons and Singles. Yes, even pompons and singles 

 should be disbudded, no matter for what purpose. Even a bed of 

 pompons will show up much better, the flowers will be brighter 

 and will last much longer when disbudded. This is because the 

 young growth does not hide the flowers and use the strength 

 DOROTHY PEACOCK ^™"^ *^™- ^^^° *^ ^"^^^^^ breaking lower will come on Ind 



Showing natural habit of growth replace them as they fade. 



